This is a 2 part post. 1 at the end of my journey in 2016, 2 a little over a year later.
Part 1. It's been 18 days since I finished cycling the Northern Tier. It was one month ago that a tragic accident occurred on another bike tour in another part of the country. Let me explain.
Anne Davis was a rock climbing student of mine at W&M. A natural climber. Tall athletic build. Happy go lucky kind of girl. (Meant to be kind words) Rarely came to class on time. Gave it her all when she finally arrived.
Last spring she was in my Rock Climbing II class. It was a small class that bonded well. At the end of the trip, we gathered for a group photo with the cliff in the background. It's a classic photo. After the final field trip experience, the class had a hard copy made and everyone signed it adding a few jaunty words. They mailed it to my home after graduation. Needless to say I was touched. I have that photo on my home desk. That was in mid May, 2016.
I'm not sure exactly when I learned about Anne's intention to ride a bike across the country, but it didn't really surprise me. And it didn't surprise me to learn that she had little experience with cycling. Ah to be young and impetuous again. I saw a Facebook post of her on a bike with a backpack on. Yikes! I thought. Hope she's not riding with that on her back... I had no memory or understanding on the specifics of her intended journey. I smiled to myself and wished her well. I prayed she'd be in good company.
Fast forward in time. I'm nearly a month into my own journey. Somewhere in eastern Montana. On July 15th, I see a Facebook post about Laura Stark and Anne being struck by a car in Idaho Falls. It was a go fund me account for Ms. Stark. Anne was spoken of in past tense. My heart sunk. After doing a Google search I learned what happened.
Early Wednesday evening July 13, 2016, Anne and Laura were at the end of a 79 mile day when a 33 year old woman struck them from behind as they entered Idaho (Falls) from Wyoming. Despite quick medical assistance, Anne didn't make it. Laura is still in the hospital in Idaho facing a long recovery. My heart goes out to Laura and both families and their friends.
I am touched by this tragic turn of events while I was on the ride, but there was absolutely nothing I could do. Zip. I did know this. I could say nothing to my family and friends. I couldn't offer my condolences on social media as it would increase worries from my family, especially my mom.
Part 2.
Here it is August 3, 2017. It's been over a year since I finished the Northern Tier. I look back on the experience with great fondness. Almost surreal. Definitely a strong sense of accomplishment.
I still bike a lot. Did a 500 mile bike tour around eastern NC in June with my wife, Pam, Tom B and Gay. Gay had knee replacement last winter. Doing great. Not perfect but great. He did RAGBRAI last week with Denise. Tom is a local VA friend. Funny guy. He's pretty remarkable too. He's half the man he used to be. Just 4 years ago he weighed 420 lbs! Now, 205. Wow. Just wow. No surgery. Just diet and exercise. I had an emergency appendectomy in late April so I hadn't done a lot to get in shape for the tour, but I figured it would be fine because it was F L A T! We all did great.
Back to Anne Davis. The woman that killed her and put Laura, her riding buddy in a wheelchair for life, pleaded guilty a year later to vehicular manslaughter and failure to maintain vehicle insurance. One year in jail with all but 60 days suspended. 3 year license revocation & 5 year restriction and a $500 fine. Patricia Breyer had previous convictions including no insurance and leaving scene. I hope there is a special place in hell for such irresponsible people. This event has touched my heart on so many levels. A sweet young woman undertaking an experience of a lifetime had her life ripped away by a ... I don't even have words to describe her.
Anne was The treasured daughter of a Methodist minister. Recent college grad. Former student of mine. (A picture of my rock climbing class that includes Anne complete with everyone's note still sits on my home desk.) Sigh. Rest In Peace, Anne.
Now for the rest of us, be careful out there. Driving and cycling.
With that set back as the exception, what a great adventure it was bicycling across the USA. I highly recommend it. Prepare yourself. Physically. Mentally. Equipment wise. Spirituality. Yeah, I'm the praying type. Know thyself and thy gear. Have spare nuts and bolts. Tools. And back up plans. Tell your family not to worry and that you love them very much.
Ride on and Godspeed.
Thursday, August 3, 2017
Monday, August 1, 2016
Epilogue Part 1
I managed to get up and have the motel's continental breakfast with Bill & Sandy. It felt a bit odd to see them ride away. We'd been traveling together for just over 6 weeks since Anacortes. Excellent traveling companions and friends. I'm certain the rest of their journey will go well. Godspeed.
I picked up a one way rental car from Hertz in Brainerd. Actually they came to the inn and picked me up. I was able to load my bike and gear in the car and was taken to the Hertz location where I filled out the paperwork and was off to head home.
Driving all the way back to southeastern VA probably sounds torturous to most people. Mostly I agree. What I liked best about the drive is the time to think and reflect. I know once I return home, I'll happily return to my life. Bicycle touring is a much different world as you have read in this blog. But why is is so appealing? Good question. Here are some of my thoughts.
I love being on the open road. It's both inspiring and intimidating to look ahead and see what's to come. That runs the gambit of realms from seeing the grueling climbs, harrowing descents, long lonely, desolate stretches, exciting destinations and breathtaking scenery. Each aspect is an essential ingredient of the journey. For some it's all about arriving. While that's ultimately "The Goal", to me it's what happens along the way that makes the destination so darn sweet.
I think about the times when I question my decisions. Decision to go on this little adventure. How to manage the logistics (getting bike, gear and self there). How to physically prepare myself. My gear. Prepare my family for my absence. (They were awesome in their support!) And of course to manage the road ahead. To my credit, I chose only the best of traveling companions! Seriously. While there may have been a few hiccups along the way, knowing how people operate is most helpful in wrapping your head around personal day to day routines. The most endearing quality I appreciated of them was patience.
The daily routine: wake up. For the umpteenth time. Some nights are longer than others. Finally get up. Get dressed for riding. Pack. Throw your gear out of the tent. Find the restroom. Come back. Pack up the tent. Load the bike. Oh yeah. Find something to eat and drink before beginning. Head out. This process from getting up to departure took 45 minutes. Do this each and every day we camp. When we stayed indoors, the routine varied only slightly. It was more challenging to get out of bed.
Day after day. The only thing that varied was the route and weather. Typically we made decisions the day before about our "destination of the day". At some point before we departed for the day, we would look at places to stop along the way for food/drink and rest. We'd need to anticipate availability of food and shelter at our destination and if we needed to buy and bring stuff with us or get it there. Little towns weren't all that dependable. They might close early or not open on Wednesdays or some such nonsense. Always have emergency rations with you. Just in case... As for the weather, I'm sure I annoy my companions with my weather watching. I like to know what to expect. (I've avoided the teeth of more than one storm!) It helped me prepare. Mentally and physically. When to repack certain things to ensure they stay dry. Make other stuff more accessible. Etc. Will it be cold or hot? Headwind, crosswind or tailwind? Knowing helps me steel myself for the challenges ahead and delight in the anticipated joys. Some of my compatriots don't want to know. That's part of the excitement for them, I understand that.
Fun? Define fun. Enjoyable. Amusing. Pleasurable. I suppose I could look at it that way. Heck, why else would I ever undertake such an experience?
The allure. I've done enough extended touring (more than a week) to grasp the appeal of loaded bicycle touring across the USA. The mysterious unknowns of what lies ahead. Who will you meet? What the accommodations will be like? Unusual sights? Physical challenges? How I will interact with all this draws me forward.
Day by day: The simplicity of day to day activities is, well, simply beautiful. Following a route and routine carries a certain amount of comfort. And the effort. Oh the effort. That never goes away. Everything requires a mental and physical push to move onward. The grind of getting on your heavy, loaded up bike and churning out miles each and every day can certainly wear on your psyche. Not to mention my sore body parts. But I couldn't let harsh thoughts overcome me. Even when the going gets difficult, I had to find the silver cloud. That's what challenge is all about to me.
Heading towards a specific destination helps me find the motivation to drive on. So while I'm back mentioning the destination, it's the steps along the way that keep the destination in focus. I might compare it to painting a picture. I'm no artist but it's clear that a lot goes into painting a picture. But when it's done, and not until it's done can one fully appreciate its message. So as I have reached the end of my journey across the USA I can really begin to put it all in perspective. The people I've met and traveled with. The communities I've visited. Sights seen. Emotional highs and lows. And so
much more.
I'm a Christian man who had a lot of time on his hands to ponder life. I spoke with God on a number of occasions. I prayed of course. Mostly I talked to God expressing my great appreciatioon for all that I have and all that I have been given, that allows me to experience such a life changing journey. At one point I felt pretty ill. I asked Him for strength and improved health so I could continue & complete my journey across country. Now of course I don't know if I was granted grace by His hearing my plea, but I'd like to think so. I am and will be eternally grateful.
It had been one week now since I was on the last leg of my travels. Do I miss it? Sure. I miss traveling with my wife and friends. Seeing new places and meeting new people. I can still ride my bike any time. My bride is still my riding partner and the mother of my great kids, although they aren't really kids anymore. My friends are still my friends and when we get to hang out together, our bond will be even more meaningful through our shared experiences. Not only will I have my memories to cherish but I'll have my photos and this blog to keep my memories straight! At least from my point of view.😎
This epilogue has largely been a rambling piece in an attempt to tie up a few loose thoughts. I plan to have at least one more entry to share some even more random thoughts and experiences and maybe feelings about this little bike ride.
This leg completes my bike ride across the USA via the Northern Tier.
Total mileage 4,303 miles
73 days of riding
Yes. It was fun.
Thanks for reading.
Cheers!🍺🚴🏻😎
Kim
I picked up a one way rental car from Hertz in Brainerd. Actually they came to the inn and picked me up. I was able to load my bike and gear in the car and was taken to the Hertz location where I filled out the paperwork and was off to head home.
Driving all the way back to southeastern VA probably sounds torturous to most people. Mostly I agree. What I liked best about the drive is the time to think and reflect. I know once I return home, I'll happily return to my life. Bicycle touring is a much different world as you have read in this blog. But why is is so appealing? Good question. Here are some of my thoughts.
I love being on the open road. It's both inspiring and intimidating to look ahead and see what's to come. That runs the gambit of realms from seeing the grueling climbs, harrowing descents, long lonely, desolate stretches, exciting destinations and breathtaking scenery. Each aspect is an essential ingredient of the journey. For some it's all about arriving. While that's ultimately "The Goal", to me it's what happens along the way that makes the destination so darn sweet.
I think about the times when I question my decisions. Decision to go on this little adventure. How to manage the logistics (getting bike, gear and self there). How to physically prepare myself. My gear. Prepare my family for my absence. (They were awesome in their support!) And of course to manage the road ahead. To my credit, I chose only the best of traveling companions! Seriously. While there may have been a few hiccups along the way, knowing how people operate is most helpful in wrapping your head around personal day to day routines. The most endearing quality I appreciated of them was patience.
The daily routine: wake up. For the umpteenth time. Some nights are longer than others. Finally get up. Get dressed for riding. Pack. Throw your gear out of the tent. Find the restroom. Come back. Pack up the tent. Load the bike. Oh yeah. Find something to eat and drink before beginning. Head out. This process from getting up to departure took 45 minutes. Do this each and every day we camp. When we stayed indoors, the routine varied only slightly. It was more challenging to get out of bed.
Day after day. The only thing that varied was the route and weather. Typically we made decisions the day before about our "destination of the day". At some point before we departed for the day, we would look at places to stop along the way for food/drink and rest. We'd need to anticipate availability of food and shelter at our destination and if we needed to buy and bring stuff with us or get it there. Little towns weren't all that dependable. They might close early or not open on Wednesdays or some such nonsense. Always have emergency rations with you. Just in case... As for the weather, I'm sure I annoy my companions with my weather watching. I like to know what to expect. (I've avoided the teeth of more than one storm!) It helped me prepare. Mentally and physically. When to repack certain things to ensure they stay dry. Make other stuff more accessible. Etc. Will it be cold or hot? Headwind, crosswind or tailwind? Knowing helps me steel myself for the challenges ahead and delight in the anticipated joys. Some of my compatriots don't want to know. That's part of the excitement for them, I understand that.
Fun? Define fun. Enjoyable. Amusing. Pleasurable. I suppose I could look at it that way. Heck, why else would I ever undertake such an experience?
The allure. I've done enough extended touring (more than a week) to grasp the appeal of loaded bicycle touring across the USA. The mysterious unknowns of what lies ahead. Who will you meet? What the accommodations will be like? Unusual sights? Physical challenges? How I will interact with all this draws me forward.
Day by day: The simplicity of day to day activities is, well, simply beautiful. Following a route and routine carries a certain amount of comfort. And the effort. Oh the effort. That never goes away. Everything requires a mental and physical push to move onward. The grind of getting on your heavy, loaded up bike and churning out miles each and every day can certainly wear on your psyche. Not to mention my sore body parts. But I couldn't let harsh thoughts overcome me. Even when the going gets difficult, I had to find the silver cloud. That's what challenge is all about to me.
Heading towards a specific destination helps me find the motivation to drive on. So while I'm back mentioning the destination, it's the steps along the way that keep the destination in focus. I might compare it to painting a picture. I'm no artist but it's clear that a lot goes into painting a picture. But when it's done, and not until it's done can one fully appreciate its message. So as I have reached the end of my journey across the USA I can really begin to put it all in perspective. The people I've met and traveled with. The communities I've visited. Sights seen. Emotional highs and lows. And so
much more.
I'm a Christian man who had a lot of time on his hands to ponder life. I spoke with God on a number of occasions. I prayed of course. Mostly I talked to God expressing my great appreciatioon for all that I have and all that I have been given, that allows me to experience such a life changing journey. At one point I felt pretty ill. I asked Him for strength and improved health so I could continue & complete my journey across country. Now of course I don't know if I was granted grace by His hearing my plea, but I'd like to think so. I am and will be eternally grateful.
It had been one week now since I was on the last leg of my travels. Do I miss it? Sure. I miss traveling with my wife and friends. Seeing new places and meeting new people. I can still ride my bike any time. My bride is still my riding partner and the mother of my great kids, although they aren't really kids anymore. My friends are still my friends and when we get to hang out together, our bond will be even more meaningful through our shared experiences. Not only will I have my memories to cherish but I'll have my photos and this blog to keep my memories straight! At least from my point of view.😎
This epilogue has largely been a rambling piece in an attempt to tie up a few loose thoughts. I plan to have at least one more entry to share some even more random thoughts and experiences and maybe feelings about this little bike ride.
This leg completes my bike ride across the USA via the Northern Tier.
Total mileage 4,303 miles
73 days of riding
Yes. It was fun.
Thanks for reading.
Cheers!🍺🚴🏻😎
Kim
Monday, July 25, 2016
Day 36 Last Day Riding
We departed the Lakeside View motel at 7 as usual. I was able to make coffee in the room. A treat for me. Sandy revealed that unlike me, she is less than fond of the aroma of fresh coffee. Good thing this was our last opportunity to share a room with coffee privileges.😎
We headed down the road to Brainerd via the Paul Bunyon Trail (PBT). It's an asphalt trail about 10 or 12 feet wide. Like any other paved surface, its condition varies from smooth to cracks resembling a lunar landscape. But mostly, it's mildly cracked with tar filling the crevasses. It's well shaded but the trees and growth don't obscure an afternoon sun. The trail does guard against winds from the side. Most of what we felt came from behind.
Occasionally, we would encounter noticeable ups and downs with signage warning cyclists of same. It felt a bit humorous to see and experience considering all we've seen and ridden so far. That did make the PBT more fun because it's quite long and monotonous. Scenic from time to time but monotonous. The grade of the terrain is v e r y gradual. Typically it's difficult to tell visually if you're going up or down. The only thing that gives it away is your speed relative to how your legs feel with the effort. That means going down is easier than going up!
This section of trail was familiar to me as I rode it last year in my run up to Bemidji from Brainerd. It was largely as I had remembered but of course I was headed in the opposite direction! We ate breakfast at "Joe's Viddles". As it turns out, we had lunch there last year! Kinda like old times:-)
As it also turns out, the trail was far from cleared of storm debris. Lots of trees across the trail. All but 2 or 3 of them simply called for us to duck under branches or pick our way through the brush. Once we had to stop and pick up our bikes over a significant log. No biggie. One we had to walk around the end/tree top in the tall grass. Others had blazed that trail before we got there. There was a short but steep climb back to the trail. Normally this wouldn't have been a big deal at all, but we are pushing bikes laden with stuff! My front panniers are not suited for off road adventures. No clearance. One more was our biggest challenge. There was no way around. We had to go through. Not a lot of fun but with a few choice words we made it through.
It's incredible how far ranging the destruction from the storm had on the area. We were over 100 miles from Itaska State Park yet the wind damage had been evident throughout! People in Bemidji and Walker had been without power for about 3 days and a week later some are still without power! Glad we missed that blow.
But in the closing 30 miles of the ride today, there was scant evidence of the storm. The trail was in very good shape even in the area where construction of a new trail bridge was being built. Seeing that being constructed was impressive. We stopped at Nisswa (not a typo) for lunch. The A&W restaurant sold "All American Food". They even made their own root beer on premises. Bill and Sandy had a root beer float. I had a milkshake. My only regret was I decided not to have a root beer float too. I did have a "Coney" (chili dog). Mm mm.
That made the final miles enjoyable. We rolled into Brainerd and found the Rodeway Inn. Actually as we neared it things began coming back to me from last year. We stayed there last year too. Last year it was the last room in Brainerd. There had been a big storm nearby and all the neighboring power companies had crews on site. We got lucky. 1. We missed the storm and 2. We got a room.
But now the riding part of this saga is coming to a close. Tomorrow Bill and Sandy will pack up their bikes and continue their journey to family camp in Central Lake, Michigan. I will be picked up by Hertz at 9 with a rental car to teleport be back to the land of heat and humidity.
It has been one hell of a journey. And it has been about the journey not the destination. From start to this point. We crossed over the 2,000 mile point today. I'm glad I had the company of my beautiful loving wife, Pam, for the first part up to Whitefish. She had to fly home. She's my soulmate and inspiration. Then there's the one and only Gay Rehnback. He also parted ways and headed south to tag up with the Transamerica route to ride home to the Beach. Godspeed. And finally, the dynamic duo. We traveled together for nearly 3 weeks. They will continue on to Central Lake, Michigan where they'll meet up w their daughter and son in law for family camp. I look forward to the next adventure with them. It was a blast. A long, grueling, challenging, fun experience. I think we'll have a few tales to share.
This is not the end of this blog, however. I plan on at least 2 more posts. One will be an epilogue. The other a collection of thoughts and random experiences, and a couple of surprises. As you read this, if you've been following me and have anything you would like to read more about, don't hesitate to suggest something. This entire blog has been a culmination of my thoughts and experiences tapped out on my iPhone 6+ I only wish I could have found a format to post pictures with my blog. It wasn't meant to be. I post some things on Facebook. Others will reside in my collection.
It's been real.
Today
66 miles
5 hours 20 minutes in the saddle
12.3 mph avg
26.5 max
You're the best. Hugs to you all.
Cheers!
Kim
We headed down the road to Brainerd via the Paul Bunyon Trail (PBT). It's an asphalt trail about 10 or 12 feet wide. Like any other paved surface, its condition varies from smooth to cracks resembling a lunar landscape. But mostly, it's mildly cracked with tar filling the crevasses. It's well shaded but the trees and growth don't obscure an afternoon sun. The trail does guard against winds from the side. Most of what we felt came from behind.
Occasionally, we would encounter noticeable ups and downs with signage warning cyclists of same. It felt a bit humorous to see and experience considering all we've seen and ridden so far. That did make the PBT more fun because it's quite long and monotonous. Scenic from time to time but monotonous. The grade of the terrain is v e r y gradual. Typically it's difficult to tell visually if you're going up or down. The only thing that gives it away is your speed relative to how your legs feel with the effort. That means going down is easier than going up!
This section of trail was familiar to me as I rode it last year in my run up to Bemidji from Brainerd. It was largely as I had remembered but of course I was headed in the opposite direction! We ate breakfast at "Joe's Viddles". As it turns out, we had lunch there last year! Kinda like old times:-)
As it also turns out, the trail was far from cleared of storm debris. Lots of trees across the trail. All but 2 or 3 of them simply called for us to duck under branches or pick our way through the brush. Once we had to stop and pick up our bikes over a significant log. No biggie. One we had to walk around the end/tree top in the tall grass. Others had blazed that trail before we got there. There was a short but steep climb back to the trail. Normally this wouldn't have been a big deal at all, but we are pushing bikes laden with stuff! My front panniers are not suited for off road adventures. No clearance. One more was our biggest challenge. There was no way around. We had to go through. Not a lot of fun but with a few choice words we made it through.
It's incredible how far ranging the destruction from the storm had on the area. We were over 100 miles from Itaska State Park yet the wind damage had been evident throughout! People in Bemidji and Walker had been without power for about 3 days and a week later some are still without power! Glad we missed that blow.
But in the closing 30 miles of the ride today, there was scant evidence of the storm. The trail was in very good shape even in the area where construction of a new trail bridge was being built. Seeing that being constructed was impressive. We stopped at Nisswa (not a typo) for lunch. The A&W restaurant sold "All American Food". They even made their own root beer on premises. Bill and Sandy had a root beer float. I had a milkshake. My only regret was I decided not to have a root beer float too. I did have a "Coney" (chili dog). Mm mm.
That made the final miles enjoyable. We rolled into Brainerd and found the Rodeway Inn. Actually as we neared it things began coming back to me from last year. We stayed there last year too. Last year it was the last room in Brainerd. There had been a big storm nearby and all the neighboring power companies had crews on site. We got lucky. 1. We missed the storm and 2. We got a room.
But now the riding part of this saga is coming to a close. Tomorrow Bill and Sandy will pack up their bikes and continue their journey to family camp in Central Lake, Michigan. I will be picked up by Hertz at 9 with a rental car to teleport be back to the land of heat and humidity.
It has been one hell of a journey. And it has been about the journey not the destination. From start to this point. We crossed over the 2,000 mile point today. I'm glad I had the company of my beautiful loving wife, Pam, for the first part up to Whitefish. She had to fly home. She's my soulmate and inspiration. Then there's the one and only Gay Rehnback. He also parted ways and headed south to tag up with the Transamerica route to ride home to the Beach. Godspeed. And finally, the dynamic duo. We traveled together for nearly 3 weeks. They will continue on to Central Lake, Michigan where they'll meet up w their daughter and son in law for family camp. I look forward to the next adventure with them. It was a blast. A long, grueling, challenging, fun experience. I think we'll have a few tales to share.
This is not the end of this blog, however. I plan on at least 2 more posts. One will be an epilogue. The other a collection of thoughts and random experiences, and a couple of surprises. As you read this, if you've been following me and have anything you would like to read more about, don't hesitate to suggest something. This entire blog has been a culmination of my thoughts and experiences tapped out on my iPhone 6+ I only wish I could have found a format to post pictures with my blog. It wasn't meant to be. I post some things on Facebook. Others will reside in my collection.
It's been real.
Today
66 miles
5 hours 20 minutes in the saddle
12.3 mph avg
26.5 max
You're the best. Hugs to you all.
Cheers!
Kim
Sunday, July 24, 2016
Day 35 Paul Bunyon and the Blue Babe
We left Itaska AYH Mississippi Headwaters hostel a little after 7 despite getting locked out for a few minutes. We made a first stop at a little convenience store 3 miles out of town for coffee and food. The weather was excellent for cycling. 60s and light winds. Our ultimate destination is Walker, MN but the real objective is Bemidji.
To refresh your memory, last year I biked form Bar Harbor, ME to Bemidji. This year I'm cycling from Anacortes, WA back to Bemidji. There's nothing special about Bemidji for me it was just a place I could stop and get transportation home last year. So by reaching Bemidji this year I have connected the two halves to equal riding across the USA. Never had the time to do it all in one stretch, so I'm doing it in approximate halves. The Paul Bunyon statue is the touchpoint.
Now where was I. Actually it's only about 30 miles to Bemidji from Itaska park. The road was fairly hilly with varying shoulder widths. The roads were rough and cracked too. Sigh. Can't have everything. We finally pulled into the town of Bemidji, but that's not good enough. We had to find the city center where I ended up last year. For the last few miles we were on the Paul Bunyon Trail which is in great condition pavement wise. We got some local directions and found it.
Ok. This is cool.
No banner to cross. No bands playing a victory song. No cheering crowds. Just Paul Bunyon and the Blue Babe waiting to pose for a picture with me. Doesn't get any better than that. Really. I'm thrilled. Thrilled. 4,250 miles coast to coast. I just checked that off my bucket list. Done. Sure feels good, I'll say that much. More on this in a future post. A lot more.
Let me make a little nod of tribute before I return to the ride. I absolutely could not have done it without the love and support of my family and friends. My loving wife, Pam, most of all for the support and inspiration. My children, Kirsten and Logan for their love and caring. Gay Rehnback for being with me the first half last year and up to Whitefish this year. Bill and Sandy Doyle for putting this whole plan into action and keeping me on track since Whitefish. No small task mind you. And I would be remiss if I failed to thank my dear mother and mother in law for following me every pedal stroke of the way. And to the rest of my family and friends for being there for me. But now, back to the ride. I ain't done yet!
We said adieu to Paul. Headed towards a mythical campground this side of Walker. We take the Paul Bunyon Trail. (PBT). It's closed to motor vehicles and VERY gentle grades as it's an old railroad to trails track. It's over 100 miles long! We motor along enjoying ourselves. We notice that there are a lot of branches and trees down across the way. We have to pay attention or pay the price. Stuff like that can take a bike down.
We passed through Nary, Guthrie and stopped for lunch in the shade. The only biker we saw stopped to chat. He warned us about blockages past Laporte and Benedict. Yikes! That's a long trail of storm damage.
Sure enough. We avoided Laporte all together and tried to get back on the PBT at Benedict. Blocked. No way to get loaded bikes through! Rats. We detour to the road. We are still hunting for the campground. Just outside Walker we come to the realization it's truly mythical. We look for a motel. Since we had purchased groceries in Bemidji we needed a place to cook. We spotted a motel with a picnic table outside. Perfect.
We went inside and got a bargain room. I was a bit concerned because the front office reeked of something. Went in the room and ... bonus! It has a kitchenette! It was clean and odor free! Living large! Bill prepared a scrumptious meal and successfully setting off the fire alarm. I disarmed it for the duration.
Tomorrow our destination in Brainerd, some 60 miles away. The condition of the PBT is now suspect. It's more direct than the road. It could get interesting.
Today
5 hours and 27 minutes of cycling
68 miles
12.4 mph avg
27.5 mph max
Thank you so much for reading about this little life adventure.
It's been a challenge for certain.
It's been a joy to know some of you care enough to read this piece of work. This has been a driving force behind the scenes for me to stay committed to keep up with my day to day activities and thoughts. I'm no writer but I enjoy writing.
Thanks again.
Cheers!
Kim
By the way, tomorrow will NOT be my last entry. I expect to do at least 3 more after tomorrow's entry. So, stay tuned. KPW
To refresh your memory, last year I biked form Bar Harbor, ME to Bemidji. This year I'm cycling from Anacortes, WA back to Bemidji. There's nothing special about Bemidji for me it was just a place I could stop and get transportation home last year. So by reaching Bemidji this year I have connected the two halves to equal riding across the USA. Never had the time to do it all in one stretch, so I'm doing it in approximate halves. The Paul Bunyon statue is the touchpoint.
Now where was I. Actually it's only about 30 miles to Bemidji from Itaska park. The road was fairly hilly with varying shoulder widths. The roads were rough and cracked too. Sigh. Can't have everything. We finally pulled into the town of Bemidji, but that's not good enough. We had to find the city center where I ended up last year. For the last few miles we were on the Paul Bunyon Trail which is in great condition pavement wise. We got some local directions and found it.
Ok. This is cool.
No banner to cross. No bands playing a victory song. No cheering crowds. Just Paul Bunyon and the Blue Babe waiting to pose for a picture with me. Doesn't get any better than that. Really. I'm thrilled. Thrilled. 4,250 miles coast to coast. I just checked that off my bucket list. Done. Sure feels good, I'll say that much. More on this in a future post. A lot more.
Let me make a little nod of tribute before I return to the ride. I absolutely could not have done it without the love and support of my family and friends. My loving wife, Pam, most of all for the support and inspiration. My children, Kirsten and Logan for their love and caring. Gay Rehnback for being with me the first half last year and up to Whitefish this year. Bill and Sandy Doyle for putting this whole plan into action and keeping me on track since Whitefish. No small task mind you. And I would be remiss if I failed to thank my dear mother and mother in law for following me every pedal stroke of the way. And to the rest of my family and friends for being there for me. But now, back to the ride. I ain't done yet!
We said adieu to Paul. Headed towards a mythical campground this side of Walker. We take the Paul Bunyon Trail. (PBT). It's closed to motor vehicles and VERY gentle grades as it's an old railroad to trails track. It's over 100 miles long! We motor along enjoying ourselves. We notice that there are a lot of branches and trees down across the way. We have to pay attention or pay the price. Stuff like that can take a bike down.
We passed through Nary, Guthrie and stopped for lunch in the shade. The only biker we saw stopped to chat. He warned us about blockages past Laporte and Benedict. Yikes! That's a long trail of storm damage.
Sure enough. We avoided Laporte all together and tried to get back on the PBT at Benedict. Blocked. No way to get loaded bikes through! Rats. We detour to the road. We are still hunting for the campground. Just outside Walker we come to the realization it's truly mythical. We look for a motel. Since we had purchased groceries in Bemidji we needed a place to cook. We spotted a motel with a picnic table outside. Perfect.
We went inside and got a bargain room. I was a bit concerned because the front office reeked of something. Went in the room and ... bonus! It has a kitchenette! It was clean and odor free! Living large! Bill prepared a scrumptious meal and successfully setting off the fire alarm. I disarmed it for the duration.
Tomorrow our destination in Brainerd, some 60 miles away. The condition of the PBT is now suspect. It's more direct than the road. It could get interesting.
Today
5 hours and 27 minutes of cycling
68 miles
12.4 mph avg
27.5 mph max
Thank you so much for reading about this little life adventure.
It's been a challenge for certain.
It's been a joy to know some of you care enough to read this piece of work. This has been a driving force behind the scenes for me to stay committed to keep up with my day to day activities and thoughts. I'm no writer but I enjoy writing.
Thanks again.
Cheers!
Kim
By the way, tomorrow will NOT be my last entry. I expect to do at least 3 more after tomorrow's entry. So, stay tuned. KPW
Saturday, July 23, 2016
Day 34 Itaska - Headwaters of the Mississippi River!
We departed Tamarack by 7:15 although this will likely be our shortest riding day so far. A big storm is forecast for the early afternoon so by arriving at Itaska State Park earlier we would avoid riding in foul weather. Smart huh!?
The ride is going swimmingly except for the ups that preceded the downs. Sure feels like a lot of work first thing in the morning. Within a few miles the hills relented for a while. The road was now flat with a slight cooling breeze in our faces. Felt good to me. It was shaping up to be a nice ride.
We had departed Tamarack before the camp store had opened. The good news is a convenience store was indicated to be 3 miles down the road according to the map. Yep. Sure enough. It was there! But not a soul to be found about the place. That's ok. I learned not to rely on these out of the way stores. 15 miles or so Two Inlets was a another store in the town by the same name. I could taste the coffee as we neared. Sure enough. It was open and Java was being served. We even took time for 2 cups. Ahh.
The rest of the short ride into Itaska was uneventful. We took the south entrance. This downhill scenic ride led us to the main entrance. We waited in a line of cars to enter and maybe pay a fee. Soon a ranger rode up beside us and gave us the good news that we could just ride on in like we owned the place. (My words not his) The visitor center was almost majestic. Big and beautiful. And busy. We checked out the displays and got the lay of the land. We had plenty of time to kill as our lodging didn't open til 5 and it was 11:30.
We rode a nice bike path to the Headwaters of the Mississippi. That's what this place is all about. We rode the 5 miles first to the headwaters. Lots of people there. Took my shoes off and splashed about trying not to fall and bust an ankle or something dumb this close to me end of my journey. Before we left Bill, Sandy and I got together for a picture on a log over the headwaters stream. Sandy posted it on Facebook. Nice pic.
We went to lunch then killed a couple of more hours. It rained a bit but not much. I decided we lead a charmed life as there were big ugly looking storms in front and behind us. Whew. The park was closed last week for storm clean up. Lots of downed trees everywhere. Charmed I say. Charmed.
We're staying at an AYH Hostel Mississippi Headwaters. Busy place. Communal living style. Children of the earth mostly. A lot of families here with young kids this time. Nice atmosphere. Interesting conversations. A lot of cyclists stay here. Cooked pasta and broccoli with chicken. Been carrying this with me since Washington state as an emergency meal. Time to stop giving it a free trip across this great land!
Wifi ok. Cell service is poor. Can't get or make a call. I got a message that Pam left a voicemail but I couldn't retrieve it. Go figure.
Tomorrow-Bemidji. This is where I ended my journey last year. When I reach the Paul Bunyon and Blue Babe collassal figures, that will mark the end of my transcontinental journey. I can't stop there cause I couldn't find a rental car one way home so I have another day's ride south to Brainerd. Bill and Sandy will be with me as they are going to keep riding east to Michigan. They're headed to family camp. Their daughter, Brittany, will join them at camp and give them a ride home in late August.
Today
3:40 riding time
42.75 miles
11.6 mph avg
26.7 avg
Thanks for following.
I'm not done yet by any means.
Cheers!
Kim
The ride is going swimmingly except for the ups that preceded the downs. Sure feels like a lot of work first thing in the morning. Within a few miles the hills relented for a while. The road was now flat with a slight cooling breeze in our faces. Felt good to me. It was shaping up to be a nice ride.
We had departed Tamarack before the camp store had opened. The good news is a convenience store was indicated to be 3 miles down the road according to the map. Yep. Sure enough. It was there! But not a soul to be found about the place. That's ok. I learned not to rely on these out of the way stores. 15 miles or so Two Inlets was a another store in the town by the same name. I could taste the coffee as we neared. Sure enough. It was open and Java was being served. We even took time for 2 cups. Ahh.
The rest of the short ride into Itaska was uneventful. We took the south entrance. This downhill scenic ride led us to the main entrance. We waited in a line of cars to enter and maybe pay a fee. Soon a ranger rode up beside us and gave us the good news that we could just ride on in like we owned the place. (My words not his) The visitor center was almost majestic. Big and beautiful. And busy. We checked out the displays and got the lay of the land. We had plenty of time to kill as our lodging didn't open til 5 and it was 11:30.
We rode a nice bike path to the Headwaters of the Mississippi. That's what this place is all about. We rode the 5 miles first to the headwaters. Lots of people there. Took my shoes off and splashed about trying not to fall and bust an ankle or something dumb this close to me end of my journey. Before we left Bill, Sandy and I got together for a picture on a log over the headwaters stream. Sandy posted it on Facebook. Nice pic.
We went to lunch then killed a couple of more hours. It rained a bit but not much. I decided we lead a charmed life as there were big ugly looking storms in front and behind us. Whew. The park was closed last week for storm clean up. Lots of downed trees everywhere. Charmed I say. Charmed.
We're staying at an AYH Hostel Mississippi Headwaters. Busy place. Communal living style. Children of the earth mostly. A lot of families here with young kids this time. Nice atmosphere. Interesting conversations. A lot of cyclists stay here. Cooked pasta and broccoli with chicken. Been carrying this with me since Washington state as an emergency meal. Time to stop giving it a free trip across this great land!
Wifi ok. Cell service is poor. Can't get or make a call. I got a message that Pam left a voicemail but I couldn't retrieve it. Go figure.
Tomorrow-Bemidji. This is where I ended my journey last year. When I reach the Paul Bunyon and Blue Babe collassal figures, that will mark the end of my transcontinental journey. I can't stop there cause I couldn't find a rental car one way home so I have another day's ride south to Brainerd. Bill and Sandy will be with me as they are going to keep riding east to Michigan. They're headed to family camp. Their daughter, Brittany, will join them at camp and give them a ride home in late August.
Today
3:40 riding time
42.75 miles
11.6 mph avg
26.7 avg
Thanks for following.
I'm not done yet by any means.
Cheers!
Kim
Day 33 Tamarack
We departed Fargo with a good taste in our mouths. The hospitality was pleasant. The bike shop was professional and cool. The food and ambiance about town was memorable. Can't beat that. I'd make a point to visit if I find myself back in these parts. But move on we must.
We wound ourselves around town a little finding our way east. We had to cross a bridge using the walkway since the road seemed narrow and busy. Well so was the walkway. And rats! We entered into Minnesota but there was NO welcome sign to mark the occasion. Double rats. Same thing happened entering Montana too. Oh well...
All I can really say about the rest of the day was it was long, sunny and hot. The first 50 miles were quite flat. The wind was light. We meandered around so it came at us from different directions. Then the roads started to rise and fall. Fortunately, in Minnesota they have the occasional trees. That means shade! Unlike North Dakota or Montana. When we wanted to take a break, if we were patient enough a tree along a driveway would invite us over for a spell. Nothing like a cooling breeze on a sweaty body to lift your spirits. If only we had a cold beverage.
Tamarack is our destination. There wasn't hardly anything else after Fargo. Tamarack is a private campground with all the amenities. We opted for camping at $10 each rather than a cabin for $129. A bed would've been nice, but that'll be happening soon enough as I'm nearing the end of my journey. The tent site is flat and close to the facilities. We opt to have dinner at the camp store. I could even get a cold beer. Just what I wanted after a long day in the saddle. Sleeping was restless for moi. Couldn't get cool or comfortable enough. That's ok. Tomorrow will be a short relaxing day.
Tomorrow Itaska State Park. Headwaters of the Mississippi River!
Today- 75 miles
5 & 3/4 hours in the saddle
12.9 mph avg
25.4 mph max
Over 1,800 miles so far with 3 days of riding left
Thanks for following us along on this little adventure.
Cheers!
Kim
We wound ourselves around town a little finding our way east. We had to cross a bridge using the walkway since the road seemed narrow and busy. Well so was the walkway. And rats! We entered into Minnesota but there was NO welcome sign to mark the occasion. Double rats. Same thing happened entering Montana too. Oh well...
All I can really say about the rest of the day was it was long, sunny and hot. The first 50 miles were quite flat. The wind was light. We meandered around so it came at us from different directions. Then the roads started to rise and fall. Fortunately, in Minnesota they have the occasional trees. That means shade! Unlike North Dakota or Montana. When we wanted to take a break, if we were patient enough a tree along a driveway would invite us over for a spell. Nothing like a cooling breeze on a sweaty body to lift your spirits. If only we had a cold beverage.
Tamarack is our destination. There wasn't hardly anything else after Fargo. Tamarack is a private campground with all the amenities. We opted for camping at $10 each rather than a cabin for $129. A bed would've been nice, but that'll be happening soon enough as I'm nearing the end of my journey. The tent site is flat and close to the facilities. We opt to have dinner at the camp store. I could even get a cold beer. Just what I wanted after a long day in the saddle. Sleeping was restless for moi. Couldn't get cool or comfortable enough. That's ok. Tomorrow will be a short relaxing day.
Tomorrow Itaska State Park. Headwaters of the Mississippi River!
Today- 75 miles
5 & 3/4 hours in the saddle
12.9 mph avg
25.4 mph max
Over 1,800 miles so far with 3 days of riding left
Thanks for following us along on this little adventure.
Cheers!
Kim
Thursday, July 21, 2016
Day 32 FARGO!
Last night we tried unsuccessfully to get a motel room. The campsite was ok. Problem: No showers. Another problem: Hot and humid with no breeze. Where's the wind when you need it?? Sigh. The tent felt more like an oven set to bake. Finally I bailed out of my pool of sweat and set up a temp camp on top of a picnic table. Yep that's right. I laid there on my pad waiting for the sun to fully set and the temp begin to drop. At 10 pm the conditions were now suitable to head back to the tent. I slept on top of my sleeping bag until sometime late in the night. Morning came too soon.
We headed out at 6:45 after breaking camp. We went to the convenience store to grab a suitable breakfast. The first stop was 29 miles out. As it turned out, it was a breeze. The road was flat and the wind was behind us as it was most of the day.
Today we would have to pay attention to the route. There would be numerous turns. The map is good but only if you follow carefully. The ride was fairly uneventful. Only a 10 mile stretch of construction that made for interesting riding. As I said, it was very flat. Just like I like it.
Fargo! One destination I was really looking forward to reaching. It borders Minnesota and has a really great bike shop. We found ourselves in downtown Fargo. A pretty cool area. Mix of old and new, not unlike Norfolk's Ghent. We head to the bike shop. Lived up to expectations. Best I've seen. Sorry any bike shop owners that are reading this. Sandy got a new back tire and a chain. They got right on it and did it quickly. Bill and I picked up a few trinkets.
Afterwards we got lunch and found a room. With air conditioning! Ahh! We walked to dinner in the downtown area 1/2 mile away. We needed the exercise. Dinner at the Toasted Frog was very good. On the walk back, I found a $20 bill folded in 1/2 on the sidewalk. Bonus!
Tomorrow- Haven't got that nailed down yet. But, Minnesota!!
Today - 59 miles
4:25 in the saddle
13.2 mph avg (speeds drops a lot just putting around town)
24.5 max (told you it was flat)
Thanks for reading
Cheers!
Kim
We headed out at 6:45 after breaking camp. We went to the convenience store to grab a suitable breakfast. The first stop was 29 miles out. As it turned out, it was a breeze. The road was flat and the wind was behind us as it was most of the day.
Today we would have to pay attention to the route. There would be numerous turns. The map is good but only if you follow carefully. The ride was fairly uneventful. Only a 10 mile stretch of construction that made for interesting riding. As I said, it was very flat. Just like I like it.
Fargo! One destination I was really looking forward to reaching. It borders Minnesota and has a really great bike shop. We found ourselves in downtown Fargo. A pretty cool area. Mix of old and new, not unlike Norfolk's Ghent. We head to the bike shop. Lived up to expectations. Best I've seen. Sorry any bike shop owners that are reading this. Sandy got a new back tire and a chain. They got right on it and did it quickly. Bill and I picked up a few trinkets.
Afterwards we got lunch and found a room. With air conditioning! Ahh! We walked to dinner in the downtown area 1/2 mile away. We needed the exercise. Dinner at the Toasted Frog was very good. On the walk back, I found a $20 bill folded in 1/2 on the sidewalk. Bonus!
Tomorrow- Haven't got that nailed down yet. But, Minnesota!!
Today - 59 miles
4:25 in the saddle
13.2 mph avg (speeds drops a lot just putting around town)
24.5 max (told you it was flat)
Thanks for reading
Cheers!
Kim
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